The wire goes from tab #1 and drops down into the slot at point 2. The wire then goes across the bottom of the armature and comes back up again through the slot labeled #3. The wire will then go back down into slot #2, across the bottom and back up through slot #3 again. Do this 22 times, to make a 22 wind coil between slots #’s 2 and 3. Once you have wrapped 22 winds in this manner, the wire then goes over to the commutation pad labeled #4. The wire goes from this tab into the slot labeled #5 and comes back up through the slot labeled #6. Wind another 22 winds of wire in the same fashion as you did in the first winding.
I did not draw in the coils because it would have produced a drawing of extreme complexity and would have confused everyone. Just follow the pattern as described above, for each coil. Use the numbered point’s method so you know which tabs to go to and which slots to wind to. You will see how simple it is once you get started.
When you finish winding the very last coil, you will notice that the end of the wire has nowhere to go except back to tab #1. This is correct. It closes and completes the coil assembly. I labeled slot #1 twice as #1 and #49. The number 49 simply refers to the last point, which brings you right back to the start point at #1. Strip the insulation from the wire after cutting it to length and then crimp the tab closed. Make sure when cutting the wire to its final length, to leave about 1/16th of an inch extra for simplicity of holding the wire with a pair of needle nose pliers while you crimp tab one down.
Once the armature is completely wound, the wires going to the tabs should be looked at closely to make sure that none of them are touching each other. I used a plastic knife to make sure all such wires were not touching each other by bending them away from each other. Making sure the wire on top was more up and the wire going under was more lower. This insures that in case a person does scrape off too much insulation, these bare patches will not touch each other when the wires cross on their way to the tabs.
WINDING PATTERN
TEST FOR SHORTS
Now that your coil winding is done, you will need to check for shorts. The chances of shorts occurring are extremely slim. Just the same, check for shorts with a DMM (digital multimeter or similar device. Do this by placing one probe on each commutation pad and the other on any part of the armature laminations. Be aware that the very top and bottom pieces of the armature laminations are plastic. It is best to simply touch the armature with the probe on the side, where it is exposed metal.
The very last step is to test your new windings. Of course do this by reassembling the motor as it was before. It is not necessary to perform the test using your controller circuit. Simply apply the appropriate voltage for your motor directly to the motor power wires. Make sure the motor is secured if you are doing this on a workbench, as the motor has a lot of torque and will try to roll away.
MORE OR LESS?
The choice to add or remove windings is made depending on what you wish to achieve. I plan to rewind my 280-watt motor using 25% more coils than there was originally, or six more coils were added. I am doing this because I want to create more torque. It should have reduced the speed somewhat, but in fact by apparently winding the coils tighter it actually increased the speed to my surprise. I do believe this is the reason for the increased speed where there should have been none. This is really the only way I can explain the speed and power anomaly. After all, they should be inversely proportional.
An example of changing the winding count is this: Say you have a small scooter that is relatively lightweight. Say this scooter has a motor that allows it to run at approximately 10-15 mph. This is not always so desirable for everyone. Some people may wish to increase the speed of their motor. When you rewind your motor, wind less windings than there was before, such as 10-25% less windings per coil. This will increase the speed of the motor, but it will also decrease your output torque. If this is not a problem, simply use the motor you have and reduce its windings. If you still require high torque, but higher speed, then start with a motor of higher wattage. If the motor you are using now is a 200-watt motor, then purchase a higher wattage motor, then reduce its windings to increase its speed. You should wind up with a motor that is strong enough for the application, yet faster than a stock motor would be. That is the whole idea behind changing the motor windings.
As with any experimental adventures, use caution and think before acting. Pay close attention to the winding process. If you observed the winding pattern and read this article fully before you began, you should have no difficulty in obtaining the results you want.
It would be wise to balance the armature after winding it. You can do this using the same technique as balancing a wheel or a propeller. Suspend it between two objects by the bearings. The heavier side of the armature will roll towards the bottom. It is best to put a blob of epoxy on the top of the armature, right on the windings. The epoxy blob can then be filed until it balances out the armature. Keep balancing the armature until you are confident or satisfied it will perform as you expect. Don’t damage the windings during the balancing process, otherwise you will rewind again. Good you bought the 500-foot spool of wire!
no need to racing sipa hehehe... bibili pa kasi ako ng coil# 23 gagamitin ko yung stock coil natin is #24
