Hey guys, as some of you remember, i did a mod to my air filter to a K&N one (cone like shape), what shocked me was when i so called chased my friend who's riding a stock spark only thing he changed was his sprocket, 38 teeth and i couldn't catch up to him and he was able to pull away.. Im using the rextor cdi btw, could it be due to the fact that the original airbox works better than the mod i've done? Or could it simply be because of his sprocket is 1 teeth lesser? So i need your views and opinions here and i hope you could help me out yea..
Stock Airbox/Airfilter & Modded Airfilter (no airbox, co
- Thread starter sigea
- Start date
Good question, he's small and light im guessing around maybe 50+kg where as im 75kg.. As for the tires, he's using sizes front 80/90 rear 90/80, mine is front 70/80 rear 80/80..
so like what do you guys think about the modded air filter and the airbox, since the mod is not wat yamaha came up with, im just wondering that maybe the airbox is better as they've designed it to meet the bikes performance..
so like what do you guys think about the modded air filter and the airbox, since the mod is not wat yamaha came up with, im just wondering that maybe the airbox is better as they've designed it to meet the bikes performance..
blue308
Veteran
im sure az135 will have a good explanation about variables. what you can do with your specific setup is to get a tune and optimize what you currently have and go from there. (my suggestion would be to consider changing your spark plug to iridium, look into a free flow exhaust, and optimize carb jet settings, these may provide minimal gains, but at least you know you've maximized the potential of your airfilter)
OT: @az135 - what do you ride? i trying to remember from a previous post that you are racer/track rider.
OT: @az135 - what do you ride? i trying to remember from a previous post that you are racer/track rider.
blue308
Veteran
@bro sigea, I'm fairly new the forum, but havent seen any comments regarding iridium being "too hot". I know that denso makes two models of "non-race" iridium that work with our bike IU-27 and IU-24, in which the IU-24 is the so called made for warmer weather model. (Here in the philiipines both models are available)
from my experience, after changing the pipe, cdi, then spark plug. without any additional tuning the bike ran smoother, and had crisper throttle response. I have yet to install my k&n and adjust a/f settings.
from my experience, after changing the pipe, cdi, then spark plug. without any additional tuning the bike ran smoother, and had crisper throttle response. I have yet to install my k&n and adjust a/f settings.
compression is high and its good? haha.. but are you sure? i mean can anyone here explain how can high compresion made by the k&n filter make the bike harder to start, i know im asking alot but i wanna know more about how my t135 works and other people can view and understand too.. as they say, caring is sharing!! hahaha
sniper135lc
Super Veteran
sigea said:
as of your comments to yours bike you modified your air filter. on this t135 carb is sensitive any changes on the air flow on the carb affects the performance of the bike. i just expiriments my self on my bike's air filter. i just use also not k & N filter but other type or brand of filter a mushroom type filter. i notice the bike starts hardly, air and fuel always change and always having back-fire everytime i return the throtle back. also notice on the fuel consumtion about 33km/l but after i return the original air filter yamaha air filter i found out all my problem about hard starting and all of my problem at above was suddenly gone. or solve. maybe this filter was design to reach the optimum performance of the bike on stock condition without modifying the engine, pipe air filter etc. thats why rigt now i always keep my bike all stock no modification except on a rextor inside.
superturbocompound
New Member
have you ever seen a superbike with out an air box,even moto gp bikes has them,an air box creates a resevoir of high density air,(air around the bike moving at speeds is low in density).as you travel faster and faster the quality of air reduce in density making the carb mixture richer making the engine bog down.air speed up,pressure/density down.best thing to do is to channel air into the inlet of the air box.another thing about air box is that the can play with the resonance from the pulsing of the intake system to get just a little more umph.my opinion is not to get rid of the air box.actually i was thinking of facbricating an intake system from the hole in front of the fairing(the horn hole)all the way to the air box intake(that area is the best quality for air density)
killerdeath
New Member
yup true i also realize that stock spark is the best.I alr mod alot of stuff to bike but still my friend spark achieve better speed than mine.so keep it stock.got value to sell and u even save money on petrol and get great performance from bike.
sniper135lc
Super Veteran
nice one bro you got it here.superturbocompound said:
realy air box or air filter is to reduce or balance the air outside of the bike you know that the air during speed up is changing....
nice one uperturbocompound
astridnoelle
Veteran
wow! nice commentaries! I think that specially on carbureted engines, airflow would be much more sensitive, unlike EFI-fed engines. sniper135lc & superturbocompound got it right 'coz the higher velocity or faster air travel will likely force the carb to gobble up lots of air given the same amount of fuel. The airbox subsequently regulates the airflow before reaching the carb. This principle is also the underlying message derived by the RAM air & NOS systems. Hot air=faster & lighter, cool air=slower & denser. Although we don't need cool air for the T135 carb, we really need a channel to regulate air density, that being the airbox. Of course with heavily modified engines (eg, sir traxxas, wingman & all the other masters), this principle somewhat applies to a lesser degree. 
